A 5-6 oz. vegetable leather is cut and cloaked in your choice of tooled monogram. It then moves on to be hand-painted in your preference of dye color. Oiled for endurance and accompanied with a flattened nickel keyring.Includes monogram. Made to order. Bulk orders welcome. ☆☆☆ A NOTE FROM THE MAKER I use vegetable tanned leather. This is not pre-dyed and conditioned leather that you will see many places. That leather could potentially be chrome tanned leather (often HALF the cost), which stains metals over time leaving black marks. Vegetable tanned leather is expensive, but it leaves the overall creation of every aspect of the project up to the maker. All of my hardware is nickel or solid brass. I do NOT use hardware that is plated with cheap metal alloys. I purchase my hides in person, inspecting every skin for flaws and character. I acquire various ounce thicknesses of leather so that there is a selection for various projects. Patterns are traced and cut by hand. I take the time to condition my vegetable tanned leather myself with oil derived from the shin bones and feet of cattle. After the first initial “bath,” my leather is prepared for its project. The sides are beveled (skimmed with a blade) to create professional edges. I have seen many craftsmen simply cut a piece of hide with a straight razor and leave it as is; I do NOT do this. You can see the difference when comparing the bland straight edges against the sloping contours of that, which has been beveled. Holes for sewing are marked by hand and then hand punched, one by one. Before assembly each project has to be hand-dyed. By coloring my own leather I am able to accept custom color requests and manipulate effects around the leather’s character. I use a combination of paintbrushes, sponges, and an airbrush to create what the customer desires. After dye has been applied, the leather needs to be rehydrated. I apply another coat of oil and a coat of finish to aid in water resistance and endure through time. The project is then sewn BY HAND, hole by hole, with a saddle stitch. This style of stitching is immensely stronger than any machine stitch. If one thread breaks on a machine lock stitch, the thread may unravel for several stitches eventually unraveling the whole piece. If one thread breaks on a hand-sewn saddle stitch, just that one side of the single stitch is affected. The opposite side of the stitch holds the material intact. A machine stitch may be fast, but it is no match for the strength of hand sewing (though hand sewing may take a few hours for only 2-3 small projects!). Once the piece is assembled together, a gum derived from dried sap of Middle Eastern legumes is spread on all of those beveled edges and then burnished down to create a finished slick edge. There are many other steps to each project, but a good craftsman will never indulge in telling all of his/her secrets. Leathercraft is a very expensive and time consuming trade, but the product tells its own tale through time.